The BMW E36 M3 produced between 1992 and 1999 had two different six cylinder engines fitted during its lifetime:
- a 3.0L version S50 B30 (1992–1995)
- a 3.2L version S50 B32 (1995–1999)
OEM (original equipment manufacturer) Spark plugs used by BMW in these engines were of two different types:
- NGK PKR7A plugs fitted in the S50 B30
- Bosch FGR8KQE plugs in the S50 B32
Original BMW part number for spark plugs: 12129069048
Upgrading to Iridium spark plugs
Some M3 owners, especially those who race or use their M3 on the track frequently have upgraded from the original spark plugs to Iridium plugs, with the NGK IX Iridium BKR6EIX being particularly popular among performance enthusiasts.
The main advantages in using Iridium plugs are that they last longer than normal copper or platinum coated plugs. They also have a finer tip which allows a hotter spark to be produced using the same current, which provides increased conductivity and improved anti-fouling of the plugs, leading to better fuel efficiency and better overall performance.
Changing spark plugs on a BMW E36 M3
The BMW M3 service manual recommends plug changes every 30,000 miles or 24 months as part of the Inspection II maintenance program.
How to replace the spark plugs on your BMW E36 M3:
- First, remove the 2 round caps on the engine cover to access the 2 X 10mm nuts holding it in place
- Remove the 2 X 10mm nuts and unscrew the oil filler cap in order to take the trim cover off
- Put the oil filler cap back on – to avoid any contamination of the oil
- Remove each ignition coil by prising up the flat metal clip and removing the two bolts which hold each electrical lead in place
- Each coil is specific to each cylinder, so make sure you reinstall them as they were originally
- Remove each plug with a spark plug wrench or socket wrench – check each plug for wear or abnormal residue
- Before inserting the new plugs you can apply some anti-seizing compound on the thread
The smaller engine Corsa C’s all have brake drums on the back. The handbrake cable assembly on these is made up of 3 main cable sections and 2 small pieces which fit to the brake shoes. The sections are listed below:
- A short 33cm Front Section which connects to the handbrake lever
- A 105cm Middle Section goes from the handbrake lever towards the rear left (nearside) brake drum
- A shorter 83cm Middle Section, runs towards the right (offside) brake drum.
- Two short cable sections (only 22cm long) connect to the two main cables to each wheel’s brake shoes.
Both the middle cables are connected together by the equaliser, located above the rear axle cross member. Either part of the cable assembly can be replaced independently of the others. The common replacement is the longest 105cm cable which runs from the front towards the left wheel.
The Long Middle 105cm Brake Cable – Replacement procedure
- First, slacken the nuts which hold the exhaust shield in place underneath the car and you will then have access to the bottom part of the handbrake lever.
- From inside the car, remove the handbrake cable adjuster nut.
- Take off the left-hand rear brake drum
- Carefully extract the upper and lower return springs, next remove the spring cup, spring and retainer pin and lastly remove the rear brake shoe. You can leave the front shoe and adjuster strut mechanism as they are, in position.
- Release the handbrake cable from its retaining clip, which is located on the lower pivot point of the brake shoe, after removing the retaining clip you can withdraw the cable from the rear of the backplate.
- Work along the length of the cable, releasing it from its retaining clips and associated guides. Remember to note how and where it was fixed (for when you are reinstalling the new cable).
- Disconnect the front end of the cable from the rubber grommet which is around the equaliser link and remove the cable from underneath the car.
- When you refit the new cable, connect the front end of the cable to the handbrake lever, and then hook the cable through the equaliser link.
- Make sure the cable is securely held in position by the rubber grommet.
Here is the simple procedure to follow in order to replace the Bmw 3-Series E90 Pollen filter (also called Cabin Filter) on the BMW E90 series (2005 onward).
All Pollen Filters for 3 Series 2005 onwards model (Model Code E90,E91,E92,E93) are the same. It is advisable to replace the pollen filter with one which is ‘carbon coated’ as provide better filtration.
First, simply open the bonnet and locate the air filter housing, which is found towards the back of the engine compartment, just below and in front of the windscreen.
It is a long rectangular shaped black plastic housing approximately 832mm x 20mm x 132mm. There are six T20 torque screws that fasten the top of the plastic housing to its mounting.
You will need to loosen these screws first, with a suitable torque driver, in order to remove the housing from the mounting and gain access to replace the cabin air filter.
Two of the T20 torque screws are found on the front edge of the casing, one at either rear corner of the housing and two more on the back edge of the housing – after removing all six screws you can pull the housing up and out from its resting position and remove it from the vehicle.
You will now see the light coloured filter inside the casing and this can be released by undoing the three latches located along the edge of the casing.
Inspect the casing for any sign of damage such as cracks or splits and clean the inside of the casing if necessary. Unpack and insert the new filter – there are three hooks on the lower edge to locate the new cabin air filter and then snap the three latches into position to lock it into place inside the housing.
Once the new cabin air filter is in place you can align the casing with the mounting and after making sure that it is positioned well – lock it in place with the six T20 torque screws to secure it to the mounting again.